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Personal Drivers License (NOT THE NUMBER PLATE ON YOUR CAR)


Found 3 results

  1. All prices include GST. Prices apply to ACD and RS type. What you get: All new seals (ACD piston seals additional if required) New pinion bearings Strip down Chemical clean Hot tank gears Crack test gears (mag-particle under black light) Demagnetise gears Shot peen gears Isotropic Super-Finish (ISF/REM) gears Set bearing preload Set mesh pattern and backlash Reassemble in dedicated clean room Price: $1,129 You can add a front LSD of your choice to really beef-up your transfer case. We aren’t a supplier of any particular brand but are happy to work with the customer to select the best option and can usually access modest trade discounts. We have new genuine Mitsubishi gear sets for the VII-IX - these are an additional $1050. Albins make bulletproof transfer gears for the VII-IX transfer case - but they are presently backordered. Carrier bearings will be inspected and re-used if in good condition. They are an additional $190 each.
  2. All prices include GST. Complete Rebuild: This rebuild addresses some inherent weaknesses in the 6 speed gearbox if you’re chasing more than standard power, but want to retain the otherwise very nice 6-speed unit. The narrower gears are weaker than the 5 speed gears. Shot peening and ISF/REM improves fatigue resistance of gears by around 30%, as well as lowering oil temperatures across torque ranges by around 5*C. High temps in the 6 speed is one of the main weaknesses. ISF is the best way to keep oil temperatures in your gearbox as low as possible, and stop bearing failure and shaft separation. What’s included: Everything in the “standard” rebuild (see below), plus: Hot tank gear set Magnetic crack test gear set under black light Shot peen gears, hubs and shafts using SAE guidelines (J2441) Isotropic Super-Finish (ISF/REM) gear set New centre diff crown wheel bolts Dimple Magnetic drain plug Price: $1,850 Standard Rebuild: Rebuilt to factory specs, using genuine Mitsubishi parts only. Guaranteed “as good as new” What’s included: Strip Inspect and compare components against factory tolerances Report (written) including all clearance specs Chemical clean components Bead blast case Check shafts for runout Final clean, ready for assembly Meticulous reassembly in dedicated clean room New snap rings and shims New seals and O rings New roll pins New input shaft bearings Price: $1,129 Add: New synchros, springs and keys: $420 (includes 3rd,4th, 5th, 6th and R) Many 6 speeds experience 3rd and 4th shifting issues. This is usually related to hub and sleeve damage, and sometimes gear dog engagement tooth damage. Some or all of the following parts are required to fix the issue: 3-4 hub and sleeve: $175 3rd gear (input): $145 4th gear (input): $185 3-4 selector fork: $65 We will report on the condition of the centre diff bearings but these do not usually require replacing. If needed, we can supply and fit these for an additional $135. One of the most frustrating aspects of repairing the 6-speed transmission is the fact that (as far as we know) we cannot replace countershaft components individually. Mitsubishi for whatever reason have not made any of the parts available separately, including 1st and 2nd synchro, hub and slider, and 1st and 2nd gear. A new countershaft assembly from Mitsubishi is around $1,500 so often it is more economical to source another gearbox if issues occur with these components. We can repair some components and will report before proceeding with any additional work.
  3. Hello, A forum member has sent us his 'RS' diff sent from the US. He's requested a bit of a thread of what we do, so thought I'd take the opportunity to post up here. As is fairly common knowledge, the US rear diffs are setup "soft" from the factory. We reset them to be the more aggressive factory-intended RS setting. This thread serves as a "here's what's involved" and could be used as a how to (at your own risk, and as a supplement to the factory manual). First things first we check a few things out with the diff itself. A bit of wear was evident from the swarf on the magnet. Not overly concerning, as it is a clutch plate LSD unit that does wear down by design. Backlash felt alright by hand so we went straight to checking preload and mesh pattern. Preload was on the low side (0.1-0.2nm) so I expected a bit of bearing wear. Mesh pattern was indicating that the crown wheel and pinion had reasonably full contact so I was happy to proceed. A bit of wear was evident on the small pinion bearing which may explain the low-ish preload reading. Once the unit was disassembled, the components were thrown through the spray wash for an initial clean. We then crack tested the crown wheel and pinion to make sure it will run reliably into the future, and to make sure it's suitable to process further. After this process the crown wheel and pinion are demagnetised and then ready for further processing (in this case, shot peening and isotropic super-finishing). It was now time to move on to the LSD unit. Undoing the screws can be tricky without the right tool - they are sometimes extremely tight and easy to strip. We use an impact screwdriver to easily undo the 4 small m5 counter-sunk screws. From here the unit disassembles into its components easily. Take note of the positions of all the items, specifically which hemisphere goes on which side of the carrier so as not to change the ramp settings. We use texta marks and scribe marks for this. Each hemisphere has a clutch pack comprising of 2 clutches and 3 plates. The US models order these incorrectly to give a soft breakaway torque action, so as to not induce "unsafe" oversteering characteristics. From the US they are ordered PPCCP, whereas they should be PCPCP. The correct ordering gives almost twice the breakaway torque. Incorrrect: Correct: While we have everything apart we check for scoring etc. on the plates and clutches. This one is in good condition. Sometimes the tags on the plates bite into the housing and cause all sorts of issues. This needs to be corrected by filing the housing back to a smooth surface, and then replacing the clutch packs. The next check is that we have an even stack height on both hemispheres, to give an even breakaway value from left to right. This is often overlooked but makes sure it operates correctly and wears evenly. In this case the variation between the two stacks was 0.01mm - about as good as you could possibly expect! The plates and clutches showed zero wear so this was driven by a very conservative driver or for a short time. Now it's just a matter of reassembling with a good oil, paying attention to your marks.