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sam@neatgearboxes last won the day on June 2 2019

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About sam@neatgearboxes

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    Lancer GSR

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    Peugeot 205 GTi
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    Adelaide, SA
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  1. The OEM gears in the Evo transfer cases are fine for stock applications, but are prone to pitting, galling and shearing in high torque applications and particularly in sustained motorsport use. This shows up as the characteristic “death whine”. Finally, we have a real solution to this problem. Together with Brena Corse, we can now offer transfer case crown wheel and pinion options that are of unbelievable quality and durability. These are made in Italy on the best machines possible, by a maker who has supplied to Group A factory rally teams, and OEM supplier to Ferrari and Bugatti. Due to the setup procedures required for the unique Brena gear profile, we are unable to offer the transfer case crown wheel and pinion sets as a stand alone item for sale. They must be installed by us at Neat Gearboxes (Adelaide, South Australia) to ensure correct fitment – you can contact us here. What you get: transfer case stripped and inspected chemical clean components bead blast housings new Brena Corse crown wheel and pinion (choices below) new pinion bearings new pinion lock nut new carrier bearings new seals and O rings Dimple magnetic drain plug ACD clutches inspected and pistons pressure tested assembled to custom specifications to ensure reliable running in extreme applications 700ml NEO RHD 75w90 gear oil (recommended fill for F1, extreme motorsport use) Suitable for: Evo 4-6; Evo 7-9; and Evo X Price (in Australian dollars, includes GST – international customers will save 10%): ISF option $3,590 Isotropic Super-Finishing (ISF) improves surface finish and reduces oil temperatures. An excellent option for a tough street car, or sprint/time-attack where the runs are not especially long (where oil temperatures are not likely to spike). 800Nm capacity. Carbon Lafer option $3,990 Carbon Lafer leaves a diamond-like carbon deposit on the surface of the gears, leading to incredibly durable gears even in low oil situations and in extreme temperature situations. Cutting edge technology. Recommended for sustained circuit and rally competition use, or where temperatures are very high. 800Nm capacity. Drag race option $4,090 The drag race spec gears are made of a special steel used extensively in F1. The key advantage is that the teeth will not break with loads up to, and beyond 1000Nm.
  2. We've been very quiet on the forum, mainly because we've been so busy in the workshop! Anyway, some interesting developments are brewing, including new Evo X dog sets, and most exciting for us - new Klingelnberg-cut transfer case crown wheel and pinions. You'll hear about these in the next few weeks, available for Evo 4-6; 7-9 and X. Anyway, a few things we've come across recently. Evo X with peened and polished gears, PAR final drive, and our centre diff upgrade. Evo II with an Albins 5-speed dog box getting ISF micro polished. VR4 viscous couplings getting checked for breakaway torque. Notice the variations of values - all should read the same!
  3. I'm sure one of the mechanical workshops on here will be able to answer this for certain (we don't work on vehicles at all!) but my understanding is yes, they are completely interchangeable.
  4. This is based on our experience, not on hearsay. We're not claiming this information is exhaustive, but we're fairly sure we've got the information right on this. If anyone can point out any other variations we're not aware of or not covered here, please feel free to let us know so we can add it in (as long as it can be backed up with evidence). We hope this information is useful to the community. Early AYC (Evo 4-7) have a finer tooth count on the crown wheel and pinion (with a very slightly different ratio); and the gear cutting process is face milling (arguably not as strong as hobbing). The gears from the later SAYC are interchangeable. The main weakness in the early AYC is the housing - it uses a smaller ID carrier bearing on the clutch side, the housing is thin in this area and prone to breaking. These diffs came with an open 2-spider diff centre which is also quite weak. Late SAYC (Evo 8,8MR,9) gears have a coarser tooth count and are manufactured using the gear hobbing technique. The Aluminium housing is thicker in key areas, particularly around the carrier lug. This corresponds with a larger carrier bearing on the clutch side. The diff centres are helical LSD units and are fairly strong, as well as providing better traction characteristics than the open centre in the earlier AYC. I have determined no difference between the 8, 8mr and 9 SAYC diffs internally, although sometimes it's difficult to know what model the diff is out of in the first place. Cheers, Sam
  5. Hi Ian, we sure are. Feel free to get in contact by pm, , or 0407 six9eight six8two.
  6. Been a while since our last post! We've seen stacks more Evo X drivetrains through the door recently, not tot sure why. Maybe it's that they're getting to that age (some are 9 years old!) or just an increase in business. Here's a fresh transfer case from an X getting a RalliArt front diff, and shot peened and ISF micro polished gears.
  7. To close the loop, I have tried every 1-2 synchro option of the cousins of this gearbox and have not found a synchro to match. Nissan, Hyundai, Mazda... they're all either smaller or different angle.
  8. Hey Paul, 6th gear is already very over-driven at 0.693:1. I am unaware of any lower gears than this, unless you swap the final drive to a 4.0 which can be done (obviously changing all ratios).
  9. Happy to help - part II (reassembly) coming next week.
  10. Hey George, I find the housing stretches if you add plates/shims. I have seen up to 0.4mm of runout measured off the back of the crown wheel with a new gearset due to stretching. Also the housings are quite soft and the additional torque strain on the plates means that the "ears" can bite into the housing, causing very unpredictable torque transfer shifts. Because these diff gear sets are extremely sensitive to backlash change, this kind of runout leads to premature gear failure. My opinion is if you need additional breakaway torque then it's best to upgrade to a Cusco unit. The reality is that very rarely do you need more than the 40nm torque differential that the stock RS centre has in an Evo. I have customers running at the pointy end of both dirt and tarmac rally competitions nationally, with stock rebuilt RS units.
  11. Feel free to PM if you're after a quote. Too many variables.
  12. Hello, A forum member has sent us his 'RS' diff sent from the US. He's requested a bit of a thread of what we do, so thought I'd take the opportunity to post up here. As is fairly common knowledge, the US rear diffs are setup "soft" from the factory. We reset them to be the more aggressive factory-intended RS setting. This thread serves as a "here's what's involved" and could be used as a how to (at your own risk, and as a supplement to the factory manual). First things first we check a few things out with the diff itself. A bit of wear was evident from the swarf on the magnet. Not overly concerning, as it is a clutch plate LSD unit that does wear down by design. Backlash felt alright by hand so we went straight to checking preload and mesh pattern. Preload was on the low side (0.1-0.2nm) so I expected a bit of bearing wear. Mesh pattern was indicating that the crown wheel and pinion had reasonably full contact so I was happy to proceed. A bit of wear was evident on the small pinion bearing which may explain the low-ish preload reading. Once the unit was disassembled, the components were thrown through the spray wash for an initial clean. We then crack tested the crown wheel and pinion to make sure it will run reliably into the future, and to make sure it's suitable to process further. After this process the crown wheel and pinion are demagnetised and then ready for further processing (in this case, shot peening and isotropic super-finishing). It was now time to move on to the LSD unit. Undoing the screws can be tricky without the right tool - they are sometimes extremely tight and easy to strip. We use an impact screwdriver to easily undo the 4 small m5 counter-sunk screws. From here the unit disassembles into its components easily. Take note of the positions of all the items, specifically which hemisphere goes on which side of the carrier so as not to change the ramp settings. We use texta marks and scribe marks for this. Each hemisphere has a clutch pack comprising of 2 clutches and 3 plates. The US models order these incorrectly to give a soft breakaway torque action, so as to not induce "unsafe" oversteering characteristics. From the US they are ordered PPCCP, whereas they should be PCPCP. The correct ordering gives almost twice the breakaway torque. Incorrrect: Correct: While we have everything apart we check for scoring etc. on the plates and clutches. This one is in good condition. Sometimes the tags on the plates bite into the housing and cause all sorts of issues. This needs to be corrected by filing the housing back to a smooth surface, and then replacing the clutch packs. The next check is that we have an even stack height on both hemispheres, to give an even breakaway value from left to right. This is often overlooked but makes sure it operates correctly and wears evenly. In this case the variation between the two stacks was 0.01mm - about as good as you could possibly expect! The plates and clutches showed zero wear so this was driven by a very conservative driver or for a short time. Now it's just a matter of reassembling with a good oil, paying attention to your marks.
  13. Thanks everyone for the interest in our Albins 6-speed option: it looks like it will be going ahead. We will endeavour to contact everyone who has expressed interest before next Monday (2/11) and start organising timing etc. If anyone else is interested, please PM your email address, or send us an email at - Cheers!
  14. Rob - happy to take questions mate. Yes I should firstly specify that every gear, shaft, sleeve and hub including 3-4 gets peened and ISF treated, so they are all (marginally) improved. I am in early talks with a design engineer about design improvements to the 3-4 and 5-6 hub and sleeve pairs. It is harder than you'd think to improve on the initial design. The material used by Mitsubishi as alluded to above is top notch, and there are a number of design constraints that restrict what you can do for OEM fitment. The other issue is, with the background of heavy industry scaling back, it is very difficult to find a machine shop capable of machining hubs and sleeves in Australia (including Albins and the like). Overseas machine shops won't talk to you without a minimum of 1000 units which is a big risk for a small operation like mine. Suffice to say I'm working on it - nothing that can't be overcome. As a side note, I reckon I've done 50 or so of these gearboxes now and have seen 1 cracked 3-4 hub and probably 5 or 6 broken synchro rings. I have probably seen 20 or so burred 5-6 sleeves though, which I'd consider to be the real problem. __ Michael - thanks for the feedback. I'm not sure on Shep but I know that Jack's bought the majority of the last batch (we have been sharing tech solutions with them to iron out some fitment issues, and to help Albins improve the next batch). The Jack's guys are good guys and are really trying to innovate which is great to see. Price-wise, we really think it's a pretty sharp deal for what you get. Considering Jack's are selling the Albins set for US$2320 (AU$3185) pre-freight and pre-GST, I think you can see we're really trying to offer some value here and get a viable solution off the ground. I've had a few complaints about price and about it not being worth it. That's subjective. If you've driven a 6-speed you know they're nice to use and the spread is great. Also if you've got an FQ or a tidy MR and want to keep the originality, I think this package is a no-brainer. The gearbox will handle that kind of power the same way a peened and polished 5-speed will handle that kind of power. It's not a sure thing but all things considered I think it will stay put - you'd have to have some mechanical sympathy. The key is clutch selection, using the clutch as a fuse. I'd prefer to see you use a full face sprung single or a multi-puck (8+) dampened rather than a paddle or multi-plate clutch. The real gearbox killers are the low-count paddles, and solid centre clutches with aggressive button style take-up. __ Jaimie, I'd like your post if I could but I'm not allowed for some reason. __ Eric - I think it will get off the ground - I've had quite a few EOIs that I'm sorting into "soft" and "hard" at the moment. I don't need 10 firm commitments to pull the trigger - I'll happily put a few on the shelf, just not 9 sets! It looks like I might get to 10 and if that's the case I may consider a bigger batch and put a few on the shelf. A few are in a similar boat to you. It really depends on how the marketing goes in the next week or so as to whether it will be available further down the track. I'm not willing to put multiple thousands into stock if I'm not sure if they'll sell though. This really is a toe in the water.
  15. I'd need the box for 6 business days, + freight each way. 2 weeks as a ball park. Another option is that I have a limited number of exchange gearboxes (2 presently). We could arrange a swap with a deposit to get you back on the road straight away.