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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/19/2013 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Hello, A forum member has sent us his 'RS' diff sent from the US. He's requested a bit of a thread of what we do, so thought I'd take the opportunity to post up here. As is fairly common knowledge, the US rear diffs are setup "soft" from the factory. We reset them to be the more aggressive factory-intended RS setting. This thread serves as a "here's what's involved" and could be used as a how to (at your own risk, and as a supplement to the factory manual). First things first we check a few things out with the diff itself. A bit of wear was evident from the swarf on the magnet. Not overly concerning, as it is a clutch plate LSD unit that does wear down by design. Backlash felt alright by hand so we went straight to checking preload and mesh pattern. Preload was on the low side (0.1-0.2nm) so I expected a bit of bearing wear. Mesh pattern was indicating that the crown wheel and pinion had reasonably full contact so I was happy to proceed. A bit of wear was evident on the small pinion bearing which may explain the low-ish preload reading. Once the unit was disassembled, the components were thrown through the spray wash for an initial clean. We then crack tested the crown wheel and pinion to make sure it will run reliably into the future, and to make sure it's suitable to process further. After this process the crown wheel and pinion are demagnetised and then ready for further processing (in this case, shot peening and isotropic super-finishing). It was now time to move on to the LSD unit. Undoing the screws can be tricky without the right tool - they are sometimes extremely tight and easy to strip. We use an impact screwdriver to easily undo the 4 small m5 counter-sunk screws. From here the unit disassembles into its components easily. Take note of the positions of all the items, specifically which hemisphere goes on which side of the carrier so as not to change the ramp settings. We use texta marks and scribe marks for this. Each hemisphere has a clutch pack comprising of 2 clutches and 3 plates. The US models order these incorrectly to give a soft breakaway torque action, so as to not induce "unsafe" oversteering characteristics. From the US they are ordered PPCCP, whereas they should be PCPCP. The correct ordering gives almost twice the breakaway torque. Incorrrect: Correct: While we have everything apart we check for scoring etc. on the plates and clutches. This one is in good condition. Sometimes the tags on the plates bite into the housing and cause all sorts of issues. This needs to be corrected by filing the housing back to a smooth surface, and then replacing the clutch packs. The next check is that we have an even stack height on both hemispheres, to give an even breakaway value from left to right. This is often overlooked but makes sure it operates correctly and wears evenly. In this case the variation between the two stacks was 0.01mm - about as good as you could possibly expect! The plates and clutches showed zero wear so this was driven by a very conservative driver or for a short time. Now it's just a matter of reassembling with a good oil, paying attention to your marks.
  2. 6 points
    Been a while since our last post! We've seen stacks more Evo X drivetrains through the door recently, not tot sure why. Maybe it's that they're getting to that age (some are 9 years old!) or just an increase in business. Here's a fresh transfer case from an X getting a RalliArt front diff, and shot peened and ISF micro polished gears.
  3. 5 points
    Now I know a lot of people believe these twin clutch gearboxes are as fragile as glass, but this is not completely true. In theory, the gearset and gearbox casings are extremely tough and should be able to handle up to 1000hp with no need for upgrades. However, there are other areas of the gearbox which leave a lot to be desired. I will go into further detail regarding these areas in other topics, but here I will discuss some of the issues associated with the Mechatronics unit, or more specifically - the valve body. As with all automatic gearboxes, the TC-SST uses a fluid control system to move clutches, shift forks and cooling fluid to the clutches. When the valve has problems, it can catastrophically effect the operation of the gearbox and cause multiple other parts failures inside the box. The valve body core itself is of cast aluminium construction, machined to create the bores and surfaces on the unit. The bores contain valves that are operated by electronic solenoids on the TCU half of the Mechatronics unit and these valves are machined hardened steel. Issues arise when material becomes caught between the valve and the bore, which has the ability to either damage the soft aluminium bore - causing leakage - or jamming the valve in the bore which causes a whole host of other issues depending on the particular valve in question. Maintenance is a huge factor in lifespan of valve bodies, as reducing the chance of damage to the valve body from stray materials will obviously statistically reduce the chances of valve body failure. For this reason we recommend changing the fluid and filter every 20-30k km maximum for street cars and 2.5-10k km for hard driven cars or race cars. We had a car come in that we had performed a build for, including a 10 plate custom clutch setup and Kozmic reconditioned shift fork 4 - however we had found no reason to modify or replace the existing valve body as it was performing well and holding pressure prior to the build. The car drove well for a period of time before the owner contacted us and advised us that the car had become almost undrivable and lost even gears. We knew the shift fork was not responsible for this, so we received the car and began testing the valve body for failure. It became apparent that a valve had become stuck, causing the car to lose even gears - but more concerning was that the valve we found stuck was also causing the odd clutches to not properly disengage. The car was driving in 6th at 110kmh on the highway when the failure occurred - thrashing the car did not cause this failure. As you can imagine - having the odd clutches partially engaged while the car is in 6th causes significant heat and will eventually destroy the odd clutches. Here is a photo of the Mechatronics unit complete prior to inspection: Here is a photo of the valve body completely disassembled for inspection, including valve removal: We had removed the entire gearbox in anticipation of finding destroyed clutches, and boy did we ever. The even clutches remained in perfect condition, however, the same cannot be said about the odd clutches.... I'll let the photos speak for themselves: We have seen many, many different failures from Mechatronics units and I will endeavor to keep this thread updated with the different failures we have found over the years. If you have any requirements for your Evo X, whether it be a manual or SST, feel free to contact us anytime to see what we can do for you! Regards, Sam BOOSTIN' JUICE PERFORMANCE sales@boostinjuiceperformance.com 0435 035 407 Unit 2/2 Verrell Street, Wetherill Park NSW 2164
  4. 5 points
    Hi guys and girls, We know that a lot of VIII and IX owners would love to keep their 6-speed gearbox but are often let down by the relative lack of strength compared to the 5-speed cousin. They're nice to use but unfortunately don't put up that well with 250kw+ that many of these cars run. The only solution has, up until now, been to "downgrade" to the older, more reliable 5-speed. Well, we have been working on a solution. We've built a couple of these now and they're running reliably in track oriented cars and performing very well. We start with an Albins helical replacement gear set for 3rd, 4th and 5th. These are only available to builders, not to the general public, for reasons I will explain later. (Albins left, stock right) They are a coarser tooth profile with a narrower helical angle, meaning better strength (Albins bottom, stock top). The design also eliminates the strange OEM thrust ring arrangement on 4th. This leads to better support on the shaft, less flex and so on. Made right here in Australia to Albins' usual excellent quality. We then shot peen and ISF the lot. comparison of stock vs. ISF treated Albins (ISF Albins bottom, stock top): We build them to our specs which we keep close to our chest. These are highly customised items and run clearances that are controlled via a sequence of shims on the countershaft. They are not "drop in" items, hence not really sold to the public. We have also made some stronger synchroniser springs to replace the ones prone to breaking and causing gear lockout. And finally, we had a bunch of testing done on the 5-6 hub and sleeve which can be problematic. We thought that we might be able to improve the hardening. The results from the metallurgist were surprising - there was little improvement to be made (none, in fact), by further heat or chemical treatments, including cryo treatment. Their suggestion was that some fatigue resistance improvement could be gained by shot peening the hub and sleeve carefully to prevent burring - which we do in-house. We think we have addressed the key issues that these gearboxes have. So here's the clincher. I need to order 10 sets to get Albins to do a run. They did a run of 10 and I bought a couple, the rest went to the States, so they are sold out and back ordered. I'm looking for an expression of interest to put these back into production. Price fully built in your box is $4,600 including GST. This includes all of the following: - New Albins 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears - New synchro springs (upgraded in-house design) - New 5-6 hub and sleeve - New genuine bearings and seals - New genuine 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th synchro rings - New roll pins and clips - New Dimple magnetic drain plug - Crack tested shafts and gears - Shot peened to SAE standards all gears, hubs, sleeves and shafts - Isotropic super finished (ISF) all gears, hubs, sleeves and shafts - Chemical clean components - Bead blast case - Built to Neat Gearboxes' exacting specs - 1 year unlimited km warranty (some conditions apply for high powered, track orientated cars) - Shipped anywhere in Aus at no extra cost with full insurance (you just need to get it to us) This box is every bit as strong as a strengthened 5 speed. It is not bulletproof (what is?), but is extremely reliable. If you'd like to put an order down, I need a firm commitment. Production will be 3 months away so it won't be until the new year. I'd like to gather a list of anyone who is actually interested in this option and we will work out the details such as deposits and timeframes once we know if we can get it off the ground. Post up, call or email us if you are interested or have any questions. Sam: 0407 698 682 info@neatgearboxes.com.au Cheers guys.
  5. 5 points
    Hey all, I have just published the Facebook and web page and will keep it up to date with new listings and current stock available as soon as they arrive, have been cleaned, inspected and are then ready for sale. Please feel free to contact me with any inquiries you have. Cameron Stean EVO-CENTRIC 14 Kenway Drive UNDERWOOD QLD 4119 Cameron@evo-centric.com.au https://www.facebook.com/EVOCENTRIC These are some of the parts that I currently have in stock. Please click the header for each category to view the images on our Facebook page. ENGINE Tall Engine (Block/Head Assembly) - $2200 Engine (Complete) - $3200 Engine + Gearbox + Transfer Case + Loom/ECU - $6000 EXHAUST HKS Hi-Power cat back exhaust to suit EVO 4/5/6 CN9A/CP9A - $650 TURBO AIR FILTER & INTAKE CP9A Air Flow Sensor - $150 CP9A Factory Air Filter Box - $200 CP9A Factory Air Filter Box with Air Flow Sensor - $320 CP9A Factory Air Intake Pipe - $50 HKS Racing Type 1 Blow off Valve - $100 DRIVE TRAIN CP9A Gearbox GSR - $1200 CP9A 5 Speed Shifter + Linkages - $400 CP9A Gearbox + Shifter + Linkages GSR - $1500 CP9A Transfer Case/Front Diff GSR - $750 CP9A EVO 5/6 GSR AYC Rear Differential - $700 CP9A EVO 5/6 GSR AYC Pump - $400 CP9A GSR Rear Drive Shafts - $150 each CP9A GSR Front Drive Shafts - $150 each CP9A GSR Tail Shaft - $125 each DASH CLUSTERS AND GAUGES Pivot Auto Shift Lamp + Controller - $50 HKS Turbo Timer with loom - $40 SEATS CP9A EVO 5 Recaro Front Seats - $500 CP9A EVO 6 Recaro Front Seats - $600 CP9A EVO 5 Rear Seats - $150 CP9A EVO 6 Rear Seats - $150 CHASSIS BRACING TEIN Front Strut Brace NEW CP9A EVO 4/5/6 - $200 TEIN Rear Strut Brace NEW CP9A EVO 4/5/6 - $180 TEIN Front and Rear Strut Brace NEW CP9A EVO 4/5/6 - $375 RALLIART Front Strut Brace NEW CT9A EVO 7/8/9 (RACT9406R1) - $280 CUSCO Front 3 Point Power Brace Used CP9A EVO 4/5/6 - $150 CUSCO Rear Brace Used CP9A EVO 4/5/6 - $120 SUSPENSION CP9A EVO 4/5/6 Front Hub Assembly - $200 CP9A EVO 4/5/6 Rear Hub Assembly - $200 CP9A EVO 4/5/6 Front Hub Assembly w/o ABS Sensor - $175 CP9A EVO 4/5/6 Rear Hub Assembly w/o ABS Sensor - $175 CP9A EVO 5 Lower Rear Control Arm (Steel) - $80 each CP9A EVO 6 Lower Rear Control Arm (Aluminium) - $110 each CP9A EVO 5 Toe Arm (Steel) - $60 each CP9A EVO 6 Toe Arm (Aluminium) - $80 each CP9A EVO 5 Trailing Arm (Steel) - $60 each CP9A EVO 6 Trailing Arm (Aluminium) - $80 each CP9A EVO 5/6 Upper Rear Control Arm - $150 each CP9A EVO 5 Lower Front Control Arm - $200 CP9A EVO 6 Lower Front Control Arm - $165 CP9A EVO 6 Lower Front Ball Joint - $60 CP9A EVO 6 Lower Front Control Arm + Ball Joint - $220 CP9A EVO 5/6 Front K Sub Frame GSR - $350 CP9A EVO 5/6 Rear Sub Frame GSR - $150 CP9A EVO 5/6 Front Sway Bar with Linkages - $110 CP9A EVO 5/6 Rear Sway Bar with Linkages - $110 STEERING CP9A EVO 5/6 Steering Wheel + Air Bag - $250 CP9A EVO 5/6 Steering Rack GSR - $220 Adjustable Steering Wheel Spacer Boss Kit - $80 MOMO COMMANDO 2R Steering Wheel with BOSS Kit - $250 BODY PANELS CP9A EVO 5/6 Rear Flares - $320 set or $110 Door / $80 Chassis CP9A EVO 5/6 Side Skirts - $125 each CP9A EVO 5/6 Front Guard - $425 each CP9A EVO 5/6 Bonnet - $650 CP9A EVO 5/6 Rear Bumper - $250-350 CP9A EVO 5 Boot - $220 CP9A EVO 5 Wing - $300 CP9A EVO 5 Boot + Fog Lights - $320 CP9A EVO 5 Boot + Wing - $500 CP9A EVO 5 Boot + Wing + Fog Lights - $600 CP9A EVO 6 Boot - $220 CP9A EVO 6 Wing - $400 CP9A EVO 6 Boot + Fog Lights - $320 CP9A EVO 6 Boot + Wing - $600 CP9A EVO 6 Boot + Wing + Fog Lights - $700 DOORS CP9A EVO 5/6 Front Door GSR Complete - $500 CP9A EVO 5/6 Rear Door GSR Complete - $500 CP9A EVO 5/6 Front Door GSR Shell - $220 CP9A EVO 5/6 Rear Door GSR Shell - $220 CP9A EVO 5/6 Door Front Glass GSR - $125 CP9A EVO 5/6 Door Rear Glass GSR - $90 CP9A EVO 5/6 Door Rear ¼ Glass - $60 CP9A EVO 5/6 Winder Motor Regulator - $90 CP9A EVO 5/6 Power Window Switch – $50 (Driver’s - $100) CP9A EVO 5/6 Interior Door Card - $60 CP9A EVO 5/6 Side Mirror GSR - $110 CP9A EVO 5/6 Side Mirror RS - $80 CP9A EVO 5/6 Rear Door Flare - $110 ELECTRICAL CP9A Active Yaw Controller ECU # MR362972 - $150 CP9A Active Yaw Controller ECU # MR405906 - $150 CP9A Active Yaw Controller ECU # MR477547 - $150 CP9A Air Bag ECU # MB953174 - $150 CP9A G Sensor # MR228392 - $60 each CP9A Engine ECU # MR420403 EVO 6 GSR - $220 CP9A Engine ECU # MD356472 EVO 5 GSR - $220 CP9A Alternator - $220 CP9A Dash Clock EVO 6 # MR189269 - $30 CP9A Dash Clock EVO 5 - $50 CP9A ABS Wheel Sensors - $50 each CP9A Ignition Switch - $60 CP9A Interior Map Light - $50 CP9A Interior Light - $30 CP9A Lights/Indicator Stalk - $60 CP9A Window Wiper Stalk - $60 CLIMATE CONTROL CP9A EVO 5/6 Air Con Condenser Fan - $125 CP9A Climate Control Unit # MR398327 - $150 CP9A Cooling Unit # MR360626- $150 CP9A Heater Box # MR201216 - $125 CP9A Air Con Compressor Unit - $220 CP9A Air Con Condenser - $110 WINDSCREENS AND GLASS CP9A EVO GSR Rear Windscreen - $120 CP9A EVO 5/6 Door Glass Front GSR - $110 CP9A EVO 5/6 Door Glass Rear GSR - $110 INTERIOR CP9A EVO 5/6 GSR Dash - $150 CP9A EVO 5/6 Centre Console - $100 CP9A EVO 5/6 Centre Console with Lid - $125 CP9A EVO 5/6 Steering Column Surround - $50 CP9A EVO 5/6 Glove Box - $50 CP9A EVO 5/6 Dash Air Bag Unit - $250 CP9A EVO 5/6 Handbrake Lever - $50 CP9A EVO 5/6 Sun Visors - $20 each CP9A EVO 5/6 Kick Panel / Flare Holder - $20 WHEELS BRAKES CP9A Brembo Front Calipers and Rotors - $700 CP9A Brembo Rear Calipers and Rotors - $500 CP9A Brembo Front Hub Assembly, Calipers, and Rotors - $1000 CP9A Brembo Rear Hub Assembly, Calipers, and Rotors - $800 CP9A EVO 5/6 Master Cylinder + Booster - $200 CP9A EVO 5/6 Clutch Master Cylinder - $100 CP9A EVO 5/6 ABS Motor Unit - $250 LIGHTING CP9A EVO 5/6 Clear Lenses Front Indicators - $55 each or $100 pair CP9A EVO 5/6 Head Lights - $50 each or $100 pair CP9A EVO 5/6 Tail Lights - $80 each or $150 pair CP9A EVO 5/6 Tail Lights - Clear Lens - $200 pair CP9A EVO 5/6 Boot Fog Lights - $165 pair CN9A/CP9A EVO 4/5 Front Bumper Fog Lights - $350 pair COOLING CP9A EVO 5/6 Radiator Fan - $125 CP9A EVO 5/6 Factory Oil Cooler - $90-120 CP9A EVO 5/6 Factory Radiator - $120 CP9A Factory Inter-cooler - $175-250 SECURITY CP9A EVO 5/6 Steering Lock Barrel, Door Locks, Boot Lock, Key + Keyless Entry Receiver - $350 FLUID CONTAINERS CP9A EVO 5/6 Power Steering Reservoir - $50 CP9A EVO 5/6 Coolant Overflow Bottle - $50 CP9A EVO 6 Inter-cooler Spray Bottle with Motor - $100 CP9A EVO 5/6 AYC Fluid Tank - $50 CP9A EVO 6 Windscreen Spray Bottle with Motors - $110
  6. 5 points
    Been busy the past few weeks. Evo X 5-speed: Evo VIII MR 6-speed with busted selector springs (before and after): Evo IX gravel rally PPG 5-speed dog box (inspect/clean):
  7. 5 points
    I have been looking for a budget dump and front pipe. Yesterday I made the mistake of visiting Ivan. He showed me his twin dump and I immediately started drooling. Love at first site. I told myself it was out of my budget and went home. I tried to distract myself but couldnt stop thinking about my precious. I shook all the piggy banks I had and shot down and picked one up later in the afternoon. I have spent plenty of alone time with the pipe and still in love with her every bit as much as when I first saw her. My girlfriend tells me to stop touching it but I can't help myself. Thanks Ivan for the time you spent with me yesterday, the great service, and possibly ending my relationship with my better half. Who needs a GF when I have my precious anyway.
  8. 4 points
    Guys This is just for people posting up in “ Whole cars! Personal sellers only!” We are going to burn the rule book here, and move this section to a more casual approach. EvoOz is not here to be an Agent or consumer watchdog, it relies upon common sense from both buyers and sellers, and any agreement or disagreement is not for EvoOz to be involved in. Your all grown adults, so the time has come for us to adopt a different approach, and for you guys use your common sense when dealing with each other. Further details and advice can be found on the Choice magazine site which is linked below https://www.choice.com.au/transport/cars/used/buying-guides/cars To facilitate this change, starting from NOW, the only Rules here are - $ - You are selling your personal vehicle. You are not a Dealer. You are not selling it for a mate. - $$ - If you don’t want to put the price or the number of kilometres on your For Sale, no drama….. I am sure any buyer will ask you this anyway at some point. - $$$ - Photos definitely help sell your car, we encourage you to post as many as you want. Pictures also generally contribute to more replies, thus pumping your post to the top - $$$$ - No need to post a link in Carsales / Gumtree or Tinder in your thread here…..that’s up-to you if you wish. On the EvoOz Facebook page, if your posting your Car For Sale there, we will still require you to attach the link to the forum here. As the page gets a lot of new threads each day and your thread potentially gets lost to the bottom quick, referring people here also helps keep it pumping to the top. Ultimately it’s your car, you get to pick your sales strategy, and the way it will generate the most interest on the Forum so you get it sold ….Simple ! Good Luck with all your sales and purchases
  9. 4 points
  10. 4 points
    Hi guys and girls! Some of you already know us and what we do. Here's a little intro and history for those who don't know. I've personally been a part of this forum for a while and ventured into starting my own business on the Evo platform back in 2014 and we were lucky enough to secure an awesome shop at the end of 2015. The business has since spread out a little into other Mitsubishi's and older evo's too, but our primary platform remains the CZ/CY/CX. We do all major work including tuning on Ralliart Colt, Pajero and Triton models too. We have very close business relationships with a number of shops in the USA, including ETS, MAP and Kozmic, being our sister shop. We are Australia's only licensed installer and distributor for all Kozmic products and had the privilege of being invited to the USA by David and Eric for a one on one technical conference for all things twin clutch. Needless to say we have picked up a whole host of tricks and secrets on our 12 day stay with Kozmic. Here are a few photos of what's been happening recently at Boostin' Juice Performance and we will be keeping you updated on what's in store for the future! The SLO20T race car getting some love: And the new and improved SST and engine building room getting all cleaned up: Contact details: Boostin' Juice Performance Unit 2, 2 Verrell Street Wetherill Park NSW 2164 Ph: 0435 035 407 Ph: 0478 800 443 E: sales@boostinjuiceperformance.com E: sam@boostinjuiceperformance.com W: currently under construction F: www.facebook.com/boostinjuicetuningsydney Operating hours: Mon-Fri 9am - 8pm Sat 10am - 4pm Sun By appointment only
  11. 4 points
    This is based on our experience, not on hearsay. We're not claiming this information is exhaustive, but we're fairly sure we've got the information right on this. If anyone can point out any other variations we're not aware of or not covered here, please feel free to let us know so we can add it in (as long as it can be backed up with evidence). We hope this information is useful to the community. Early AYC (Evo 4-7) have a finer tooth count on the crown wheel and pinion (with a very slightly different ratio); and the gear cutting process is face milling (arguably not as strong as hobbing). The gears from the later SAYC are interchangeable. The main weakness in the early AYC is the housing - it uses a smaller ID carrier bearing on the clutch side, the housing is thin in this area and prone to breaking. These diffs came with an open 2-spider diff centre which is also quite weak. Late SAYC (Evo 8,8MR,9) gears have a coarser tooth count and are manufactured using the gear hobbing technique. The Aluminium housing is thicker in key areas, particularly around the carrier lug. This corresponds with a larger carrier bearing on the clutch side. The diff centres are helical LSD units and are fairly strong, as well as providing better traction characteristics than the open centre in the earlier AYC. I have determined no difference between the 8, 8mr and 9 SAYC diffs internally, although sometimes it's difficult to know what model the diff is out of in the first place. Cheers, Sam
  12. 4 points
    All prices include GST. Prices apply to ACD and RS type. What you get: All new seals (ACD piston seals additional if required) New pinion bearings Strip down Chemical clean Hot tank gears Crack test gears (mag-particle under black light) Demagnetise gears Shot peen gears Isotropic Super-Finish (ISF/REM) gears Set bearing preload Set mesh pattern and backlash Reassemble in dedicated clean room Price: $1,129 You can add a front LSD of your choice to really beef-up your transfer case. We aren’t a supplier of any particular brand but are happy to work with the customer to select the best option and can usually access modest trade discounts. We have new genuine Mitsubishi gear sets for the VII-IX - these are an additional $1050. Albins make bulletproof transfer gears for the VII-IX transfer case - but they are presently backordered. Carrier bearings will be inspected and re-used if in good condition. They are an additional $190 each.
  13. 4 points
    Happy to help - part II (reassembly) coming next week.
  14. 4 points
  15. 4 points
    Dan's WTAC 2014 Clubsprint wining lap running a GTpumps 762GTP turbocharger.
  16. 4 points
    Evo 6-speed dog box (PPG). Lovely quality. We ISF/REM treated the gears, hence the extra shine. Sorry for the crappy phone photo.
  17. 4 points
    Hey everyone, We’re an Adelaide-based workshop specialising in gearbox and differential repairs and modifications. That’s all we do - we don’t even service cars. The main thing that sets us apart from other workshops is some of our in-house gear strengthening technologies. We shot peen gears and shafts using SAE guidelines (J2441). SAE tests show that shot peened gears exhibit a 30% fatigue resistance improvement. If you're interested, have a look at our short explainer vid here: We also have isotropic super-finishing (ISF/REM) facilities. This process produces a non-directional mirror-like finish on gears. This finish leads to friction reduction, lower oil temperatures across all torque ranges, and improved strength. Customers with dog engagement gearboxes also report smoother shifting. On top of these two improvement processes, we have crack testing facilities, spray washes, hot tanks, bead blasters and so on. Assembly is carried out in a dedicated clean room, using calibrated precision measurement instruments to make sure setup is perfect. We’re really proud to support the Evo community and look forward to answering any drivetrain questions you may have. Contact: Feel free to either PM me (Sam), or: 0407 698 682 info@neatgearboxes.com.au