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  3. Bridgestone

    Guide to Buying a Second Hand Car

    Buy a not so second-hand car The goal to buying a second hand car is to buy one as un-second hand as possible. What we mean is getting the one you want, in the best condition, for a good price. Here are some tips to make the experience a smooth ride. Not just auto alley With the amount of choice at your disposal, buying a used car has never been easier. You’re no longer restricted to a few car yards down the road, there are a boot full of used car sites, private sales and reputable dealerships. It really is personal preference, however searching online will quickly narrow down your choice. Too small, too big Search for the type of car that fits your lifestyle and don't be tempted to stray. You'd be surprised how many people end up buying a completely different car that's totally unsuitable. Inspection time Once you've narrowed down your options, it's time to kick a few tyres. But before you go, do some research on the car, read reviews and find out what to look out for in the used car you're after. Set yourself a budget and try not to stray too far from it. Just remember, you’ll have registration and stamp duty fees and probably a servicing to add to the cost of purchase. It’s not a new car you’re buying and there’s a chance some mechanical repairs will pop up. Here are some other considerations when inspecting: Ask more questions. Try and find out as much as you can about the car's history. Are you speaking with the first owners, where did they buy it from, how long have they owned it, when do they mostly use it? Four eyes are better than two. If you can, bring along a trusted friend who knows more about cars than you to check things you’re not sure of. They might spot things that you didn’t even think to look for. You can't see in the dark. No matter how eager you are to see a car, never carry out an inspection in the dark, bad light or rain, they can all hide scratches, dents and rust. Tyre tick. You can check the tread depth by looking at the tread wear indicator bars moulded into the tyre tread. These are found at the bottom of the tread grooves around the tyre. When the tyre is worn to the point where any of the bars become equal with the adjacent tread, it’s time to replace it. Body check. Run your eyes along all panels and carefully check the paint job for scratches or dents. Check the joins for uneven matching, welding or variation in gaps as this could mean crash repairs. Look under the bonnet and carpet for rust and signs of welding or paint overspray. Leaks are messy. Check the engine block and under the engine and on the floor for any oil leaks. The engine bay should be clean and tidy. Check oil levels are correct on the dipstick and the oil is clean. Transmission oil should be a clean pink or red. Worn Belts and rubber. All belts should look new and not shabby. Look for tears, nicks or frays. Feel all the hoses - they should be firm and not rubbery or loose fitting. Go under. Bring a torch. Take a crawl and stick your head under the car (as much as you can). Check the exhaust system is clean with no rust spots or holes. Service please. Always ask for the service book and see if all the right rubber stamps are on the right pages at the right time, especially the big services like timing belt replacement. Get behind the wheel If it passes your first inspection, it’s time for a test drive. Take a seat and look around - you should feel comfortable from the start. Here's what you should look for on your test drive: The car should start first time and settle into a smooth idle. Keep the radio turned off and listen for any clunky engine or suspension noises. Test the air con to see if it's powerful and cold on maximum setting. Test the brakes on a quiet road to ensure a firm and smooth stop. Test the handbrake on a steep hill to make sure it’s correctly adjusted. Drive through all gears in a manual - they should engage smoothly and quietly, with no clutch slip. An auto should also change gears quickly and smoothly. Drive the car at highway speeds if possible to give a better impression of handling. Ask for the spare set of keys. If you need to buy another they can be surprisingly expensive. Shake on it Your nan will have advice on how to negotiate a car deal - everyone does! But it all depends on how much you want the car and how eager the seller is to move it on. Best advice - be fair and reasonable. Some other points to remember if you buy: Do a REVS check ( to see if there's any money owing on the car. Ensure registration and service history details match seller and car. Consider stamp duty and transfer fees in the price. If you feel comfortable with it - pay with cash. It's a great bargaining tool! Organise insurance before driving away. Make a car “less second hand” with new tyres If you have any doubt about the quality or roadworthiness of the tyres on your used car, one of the best things you can do is replace them. New quality tyres can improve performance, comfort, handling and above all safety. Have an expert at your local store advise you on the right tyres to make your used car feel good as new. Had any good or bad experiences buying used cars? Do you prefer buying from a car dealer or owner? Share them with us and let us know in the comments below, or join the conversation on
  4. Brake noise after fitting new brake pads, Bendix investigates why. Follow Bendix Brakes on Facebook HERE. To learn more about the Bendix Brakes range of products visit:
  5. Rear and side extensions SOLD Diffuser still available Hey I'm selling another set of side extensions. Ok condition 300
  6. Hey selling evo side extension good condition and evo 9 rear extension excellent condition. Looking 500 for both Also got a rear diffuser damaged a little bit throw me an offer For anymore info message me 0433657998 Pick up south granville 2142
  7. Earlier
  8. No panel damage, seat are unmarked. All parts will fit but boot lid and boot spoiler may be a problem long distance 😟 Also, the car runs on E85.
  9. TMAK


    I've got ballasts and lots of other headlight parts in Melbourne.
  10. Hey there. Is the car free from panel damage? Also, would all those spare parts fit in the car for a long drive? What condition are all seats in? Cheers
  11. Stuffy

    wanted - evo 9 NSW

    You still looking? I've got a 9 for sale but someone looking tomorrow. Let me know if still looking. It's silver with 130000 kms. Minor mods. Only chasing around 29k which is what I paid
  12. All Japan Day in Adelaide is always a perfect day for South Australia to flaunt its impressive and diverse range of JDM cars. The event showcases everything from street to race and quite often there’s a number of really nice restored and original vehicles for event goes to take a look at. With Adelaide turning on another warm but perfect Summer day, we headed along to check out some great Cars of Bendix. Georges Turbo LS3 Nissan Skyline R34 Originally built in 2007 for Drift Australia, George’s R34 puts out roughly 700hp at the wheels courtesy of a turbocharged Chev LS3 engine fitted with a roller camshaft. The turbo is a Garrett GT47BB and the power is pushed through a modified T56 6-speed gearbox. As the car has been in storage for a while, George recently blew off the dust and gave it a new lease on life, including a new white paint job, which is a change from the red people know it well for. As well as drifting the Skyline, George has also run the car at the drags and managed a best time to date of 9.80 at 150mph. Keep an eye out for it this year at upcoming drift events. Kimi’s RB20 powered Nissan drift car 180SX After being a drift spectator for many years, Kimi decided it was time have a go and built herself this 180SX. Keeping with the girly theme Kimi originally had the car painted pink camouflage, but recently had it coated in a fresh hot pink sparkle which is definitely hard to miss. After a lot of development, the 180SX had ended up being fitted with a trusty RB20 engine which is boosted by a 28/71 turbo on a custom manifold with a 45mm wastegate and screamer pipe. The ECU feeds the engine via a set of GT-R injectors and on 18psi it makes a healthy 237kW at the tyres. Robert’s 1970 Mazda Cosmo Original imported into South Australian in 1970, Robert purchased this Mazda Cosmo from Mazda Australia after they’d had it since 1984. Being the only one of its kind in South Australia and only one of a handful in the country, it’s quite rare. Having only ever had minor restoration work done, the car has been maintained meticulously and only ever driven on weekends or special occasions. Being such an iconic car, it certainly stood out at All Japan Day. Being a Mazda fan, Robert also owns a Mazda Luce. Morris’ S15 Silvia When Morris first bought this S15 Silvia it was dead stock. The first part of the build was to do a custom olive green paint job, which he did himself. From there he set to work doing neat, but subtle changes to the body, as well as added custom carbon option to make it look much sleeker. Under the bonnet, Morris had two unfortunate engine failures before he put the current SR20DET in. This SR is a Japanese built race engine from Japan which originally was fitted to a very competitive Time Attack car that we’re told was able to lap Tsukuba Circuit in about 60-seconds. Since being fitted to the S15, it was tuned and makes a comfortable 285kW at the tyres. Kristians R34 Skyline GTR N1 R1 All Japan Day event organiser Kristian brought along his own immaculate R34 GTR N1 R1. Being number 8 of just 18 produced make it extremely rare, but never the less he insists that the car is built to be driven. Packed with factory race options such as carbon bonnet, Nismo built RB26 engine and full Nismo GTR body kit, it’s definitely a piece of JDM motoring history in the making. Stewy’s Laurel drift car This Laurel is one of Stewy’s cars which he previously used in Japan to compete in Japanese drifting competitions. Since then he imported it into Adelaide and to now uses at local events. Under the bonnet is an RB20 engine fitted with a turbo from a Mitsubishi Evo 8 which has been midwifed to fit the factory Nissan turbo manifold. Stewy says it’s an effective and cheap alternative and that it makes just under 300kW at the tyres. Being the owner of Accostal Suspension, the car runs all of his own components and is a great way for him to do R&D on any new gear that is being released. Enkie HR385 wheels tucked under the guards give the Laurel a timeless JDM look and Stewy tells us that he’s planning on giving the regularly used drifter a well deserved birthday very soon. Joel’s MX36 Cressida When classic Japanese style meets modern technology Joel’s Cressida ticks all the box-es to make an impressive unassuming street car. Fitted with a VVTi 1JZ from a 1999 Toyota Chaser, the engine makes a comfortable 190kW at the tyres after power is trans-mitted through an MV Automatics built Toyota auto. Compared to the original engine combo, it packs a lot of punch. The suspension and braking have also been upgraded. Joel replaced the fronts with Skyline brakes and custom-built coil-overs with Tokico shocks and in the rear he’s fitted anti-squat leaf springs to a custom fitted Dana 30 diff from a Volvo. Joel completed the conversion 8-years ago and has since done almost 60,000kms in the Cressida. One of his largest trips being from Darwin to Adelaide. Follow Bendix Brakes on Facebook HERE. To learn more about the Bendix Brakes range of products visit:
  13. For Sale: kelford 272 @ 11mm cams for evo 4-8 4G63. Condition: used Location: Brisbane Price: $490 Shipping: Pick up or Shipping at buyer's expense
  14. Price reduced to clear! Anyone keen?
  15. Yeah that's it, see what happens i don't have to sell so doesn't really matter either way
  16. I know what you mean. I don't want to lose the passion, but I've done 4000k since getting it built and I can't drive it again as it's lost oil pressure. I'm sick of dumping A LOT of cash into it and not being able to enjoy it. I'm moving to europe for a year to be a digital nomad at the end of this year, so it's going to spend even longer sitting doing nothing. I could be using the cash for the trip. Good luck with the sale mate. Not many people left that were here before I joined evoOz.
  17. Nah mate just lost the passion i guess i am spending my time at the rifle club so hardly even look at the evo these days so best move it on to hopefully someone that will appreciate and respect it
  18. I didn't think I'd see this day. What's going on. Moving onto something else?
  19. Bridgestone

    Get the 4Th Tyre for Free

    Click here for more information about Bridgestone’s current offers. *Conditions apply. All offers valid between 01/03/2019 and 31/03/2019 and are redeemable in store. +Available on Bridgestone Turanza Serenity Plus tyres, only at Bridgestone stores. Full terms and conditions here. LINKS: Bridgestone Australia - Bridgestone Australia Facebook -
  20. NEW Dixcel Type Z Evo 6 - X Brembo Front Brake Pads - sell $200 ( new 300 ) New Dixcel Type Z Evo 6 - 9 Brembo Rear Brake Pads - sell $100 ( Test fitted but never used ) ( new 290 ) Used Evo X Okuyama Carbing Frame Brace - sell $100 ( new 280 ) Used Evo X, Ralliart and any CJ Lancer Tow bar Kit with NEW CJ wiring harness - $500 ( new 1200 )
  21. great car - future classic! GLWS
  22. FYI I AM IN TASMANIA The 4 is up for sale, $30k or $33k with the trailer. Includes all spares, racing wheels & tyres, racing seat, brakes etc Price is firm, no swaps or trades. Have a look through my show your ride of you are not familiar with it, I have owned it for about 14 years and it is a good all round package. 416awkw 850nm tuned at Keeley motorsport 32psi E85 has run 11.13@132 on 360kw Won the 2016 QR sprint series best lap on the sprint track 55.9 on 360kw Has no rust and is fully mod plated with current rego PM ME IF INTERESTED ported cyl head 1mm oversize FERREA valves GSC R2 cams GSC 5041 springs Ti retainers OEM E9 modified headgasket ARP L19 1/2 inch head studs 4G64 block +20th o-ringed Torque plate bored Plataeu honed Line bored crank tunnel fully clearanced TOMEI slicing baffle kit modified oil galleries OEM 4G64 crank polished journals and champhered oil holes ARP main studs KING Race bearings CARILLO Pro H 156mm conrods WISECO HD 1400 9:1 pistons Custom baffled sump MOTEC cam angle sensor Full Race exhaust manifold GTPumps 792 turbo TURBOSMART 26psi actuator 4 inch intake Custom 3.5inch stainless exhaust MOROSO oil accumulator DELPHI blackops 1400cc injectors custom twin feed rail MALLORY FPR Pierburg lift pump in tank twin Bosch 044 pumps 2 Ltr surge -10 AN braid fuel line OSGiken R2CD twin plate clutch rebuilt last year HALTECH PS1000 ecu RACEPAK IQ3 dash
  23. Cause: After fitting new brake pads, customer came back for a check up and we found huge uneven pad wear. Solution: Uneven pad wear is often a caliper problem, caused by faulty seals, sticking or bent slide pins. Overhaul the calipers on that axle. Ensure you have used the correct lubricant, such as Bendix Ceramasil Brake Parts Lubricant on the right component Follow Bendix Brakes on Facebook HERE. To learn more about the Bendix Brakes range of products visit:
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