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  1. Last week
  2. It’s the second month of the new Meet and Eat event, and its popularity is growing! The slight rain didn’t deter attendees, and as usual, there was a lot of food trucks with skillets, pans, ovens, and stoves all ready to cook up a feast! We were there to capture the sweet cars that rocked up. Here’s our picks for April! Callum’s Nissan Silvia Spec R S15 The Nissan Silvia S15 has such classic lines, and are slowly getting rarer and rarer. Luckily owners have been keeping them in tip top shape, with tasteful and functional modifications. Callum’s Japanese-spec S15 here has most of the fruit right out of the box; the genuine and rare optional Nissan body kit, complimented with JSAI sideskirt and pod extensions. It sits on 9.5in wide TE37SLs, showing off the Brembo calipers up front. The carbon Varis bonnet has been painted white for a stealthier look. Under that expensive bonnet lies the venerable SR20DET. The head has been built to handle a Garrett GTX2867 on an E85 setup. Inside, red Recaro SR4s hug the driver and passenger, while a complement of Defi gauges lets Callum keep an eye on the engine condition. Brad’s 1974 Datsun “Kenmeri” Skyline There’s always a special one that rocks up to these meets. Meet this special one; a 1974 C110 Datsun Skyline, restored immaculately to Brad’s taste. Originally a 240K sold in Australia locally, Brad found it in pieces and slowly put it back together over five years. Production Automotive took care of the L28, rebuilding with triple Webbers for that glorious straight six noise, before it went back into the repainted engine bay. All the rust was removed before the car was sprayed in Nissan Pewter Silver. To accommodate the super low offset Watanabe wheels, bolt on flares were used for that period correct look. Making a very noisy 190rwhp, Brad’s classic Skyline is a treat for the senses. Bayley’s 1976 Holden Torana You see all sorts at meets, like P-platers that show up in the dads’ flashy weekenders driving like its theirs. Fortunately for us, Bayley’s dad has a very interesting weekender, and he does straight up admits that it belongs to the parent unit. Born and bred red through and through, Bayley and his family loves Holdens, especially the special vehicles’ department. This is a special toy, kept in concourse condition. Other than a brand new T5 gearbox, console, and custom exhaust, the car is left untouched. It still runs the original 308cu V8, has matching numbers on all parts, and the number plate was transferred over from a scrapped 1976 Chrysler Sigma. Even the paint is original! Josh’s 2010 Jeep Wrangler When one door closes, another door opens. Josh was dead set on getting a Toyota Supra as his first car, but when his parental unit said no, he didn’t kick up a fuss. He decided that the next best thing would be…a Jeep Wrangler. Those scratching their heads will understand, once they find out that the Jeep has an aftermarket parts catalogue that’s thicker than a telephone book. Except for the rear bar and side steps (Josh has that on his list), nothing has been untouched in the Wrangler. A high flow catalytic convertor and exhaust liberates that glorious 3.8l V6 note. Quad tailpipes add a sporty look, and a tune lets it churn a healthy 220hp and 300Nm at the wheels. Aftermarket fenders, custom halo lights and grill gives it a distinct look. The bulbar, spotlights, light bar, and roof rack are handy when Josh takes it off roading, along with the 2in lift kit. 33in tyres on 17in rims not only work well bush bashing, but looks great on the road too. Josh tells us he’s got big plans for it once he’s off his Ps, something that involves an LS1 and a supercharger! Shaun’s Subaru WRX STi Coupe We are closet Subaru fans at Bendix so when the best looking Subaru that was sold in Australia rocked up, modified, and slammed, it had to be featured. Introducing Shaun’s Impreza WRX STi V5 coupe. Never again will there be a Subaru this perfectly proportioned. Toned, muscular, purposeful, Shaun decided not to mess with the classic GC8 look. Instead he’s focused on making the EJ20 super reliable and punchy. All forged internals were used in the refreshed EJ block. With a Blouch turbo replacing the trusty crusty VF28, the coupe knocks a very useable 220kW with heaps of torque. Tein coilovers, Brembo brake upgrades and the full Whiteline suspension catalogue ensures it handles as good as it looks. Dale’s Mitsubishi Lancer Evo 8MR Arguably the best road going Evo ever made (the Tommi Makinen 6 is another contender), the Evo 8MR comes from factory with a better turbo, aluminium roof, and a re-programmed AWD that offers even more grip. Trust Dale to start with a great platform for mods then go all out and build it into a weapon. The beefy 4G63 is pretty solid from the get go, but to make 450kW means a full tear down and rebuilt with the forged aftermarket goodies. JE pistons, Brain Crower rods, fully rebuilt and cammed head, then dual-map tuned on E85 and 98 octane. Currently on a conservative tune making 310kW, the engine package was done at InHouse, while tuning was done at ISMR. It’s relatively more conservative on the outside, with tasty AME Tracer II wheels and carbon fibre side skirts, lip and rear pods. Helio’s Mitsubishi Mirage Our eyes are always peeled for something a stripped out hatch back that focuses on lightness and pure naturally aspirated muscle. “Wait, Hondas aren’t different,” you say, but ha! This isn’t a Honda, it’s a Mitsi. Painted inside and out in an eye catching, yet subtle Golf R blue, the inside is stripped bare saved for the dashboard and two Recaro Pole Position seats. The asthmatic 1.6l stocker was binned in favour of a 2.4l MIVEC donk from the 2005 Lancer. 120kW at the wheels may seem laughable in the time of 300 average killer wasps, but it’s nothing to sneeze at in a car that weighs under a ton. Sticky Toyo R888R rubber wrapped around 15x8 Enkei RPF1s ensure that power runs out before grip does. Still running in, Helio hopes to make 150kW naturally aspirated. Don’t be surprise when this Mirage disappears in front of your eyes. Dave’s VW Golf GTi The Golf GTi has always been styled as the everyman’s performance car. It’s got the hot hatch formula down pat; everyday usable car that can turn into a mountain road weapon instantly. The GTi can be all those things and more; and more is exactly Dave has gone for. More power. More grip. More low. So basically, more speed. It’s his tuning company, Pacortech’s demo car, it’s a showcase of what can the modern turbocharged Golf can do. The stock engine’s ECU has been given a stern talk by Underground Performance, and as a result chucks out 280kW at the front wheels. With some help of a bolt on Hybrid turbo kit, a DSG Milltek catback, and CTS down pipe, of course. Helping it haul up are front brakes pinched from the Audi TT-RS, required to haul up at the end of a 12sec flat quarter mile run. For more information about Meet & Eat events and how to attend visit the Facebook page Follow Bendix on Facebook by clicking HERE. To learn more about the Bendix Brakes range of products visit:
  3. Earlier
  4. One Skill to Improve Your Driving

    The one skill you should practice that will significantly improve your driving. One of the most important driving skills for any driver is to be aware, and it’s scary just how many drivers aren't. Whether you want to be a faster driver or a safer driver, being aware means that you’re better prepared to anticipate what will happen next and ready to tackle it. Being aware when driving involves a few different habits that should be practised all the time. The ingredients to being aware can be summed up with the acronym AGKLM, commonly referred to at driving school as All Good Kids Like Milk, and it goes like this: Aim high when steering. You’re never going to drive fast if you don’t look farther than a few metres in front of the bonnet. It’s important to look ahead and be constantly judging upcoming conditions. As you practise this, you’ll find steering input becomes smoother and braking less hard. This is a skill that will always help too, not just when in traffic or tackling an intense mountain pass. Get the big picture. Create a mental image of where you are in relation to everything around you. Did a sign say the road is about to narrow around the corner and the sun could be in my eyes? Where’s the car I saw in my mirror that could be in my blind spot? Keeping track of other road users and changing conditions in relation to you is an important factor in avoiding accidents and becoming a better driver. Keep moving your eyes. Amazingly, many road users don’t properly correct the mirrors, let alone use them. Make sure you do both and this will feed information into creating a bigger picture of what’s happening around you. Leave an out. Aggressive drivers don’t leave an out so if something does go wrong an accident is almost inevitable - it’s better to leave enough space in front of the car so you can react in time and know what’s around you. This also means when enjoying the capabilities of your car that there’s a margin for error, and that a little understeer or oversteer won’t put you into the opposite lane or a tree. Make yourself visible. Even a road user who is aware might not see you if you sit in their blind spot. Make sure other road users can see you and that you provide proper indication when moving lanes and turning. It’s a pretty simple set of skills that should be taught to all drivers. But even for competent drivers who want to be fast, this most basic skill is the pathway to smoother steering, acceleration, braking, and to being more confident - ingredients to being quick without sacrificing safety. Make yourself visible. Even a road user who is aware might not see you if you sit in their blind spot. Make sure other road users can see you and that you provide proper indication when moving lanes and turning. Have you got a thought on safe driving, or maybe your own tips to share? Let us know in the comments below, or over on our Facebook. LINKS: Bridgestone Australia - Bridgestone Australia Facebook -
  5. Buy 3 tyres and get the 4th FREE* Available on Firestone or Supercat car, SUV or light van tyres. Get 4 Firestone car tyres from $267. Based on RRP of 175/65R14 82H Get 4 Firestone SUV tyres from $477. Based on RRP of 215/65R16 98H Get 4 Firestone light van tyres from $285. Based on RRP of 185R14C 100/102Q Get 4 Supercat car tyres from $207. Based on RRP of 175/70R13 82H Get 4 Supercat SUV tyres from $327. Based on RRP of 205/70R15 96H Get 4 Supercat light van tyres from $270. Based on RRP of 185R14C 100/102Q Get up to $150 cash back^ Available on Bridgestone Potenza tyres for your car. Get 4 Bridgestone Potenza tyres from $480. Based on RRP of 195/60R15 88V Get $100 cash back# Available on Bridgestone Dueler and Alenza tyres for your 4WD or SUV. Get 4 Bridgestone Dueler tyres from $600. Based on RRP of 205/70R15LT 106S Get 4 Bridgestone Alenza tyres from $776. Based on RRP of 215/65R16 98H Click here for more information about Bridgestone’s current offers. Get the full terms and conditions here LINKS: Bridgestone Australia - Bridgestone Australia Facebook -
  6. Sydney’s monthly car gatherings are back on again, with a foodie twist! Great food and awesome cars are always a popular mix, so it’s no surprise that the Meet & Eat went off! Double demerits didn’t put off car enthusiasts who showed up in a large variety of rides. We also have to say the food was on-point, thanks to gourmet food trucks who showed up. Check out our picks for the Cars of Bendix this month! Laurence’s Mazda MX-5 It’s the hairdresser’s car, Rambo edition. Laurence of Brintech Customs showed up with an MX-5 packing a big V8 under the fibreglass one-piece front end on this Mazda MX-5. In order to accommodate the cammed LS1 out of a Holden Commodore SS, the entire front chassis past the firewall was tossed out, and replaced with a tubular chassis. Power is sent to the rear wheels via a T66, and distributed sideways thanks to a RX-7 differential and custom driveshafts. To reign in the newfound power, brakes and hubs were converted to Nissan Silvia S15. Built to be a ferocious weekend toy by Brintech Customs, the owner has had it for 7 years, before taking the next step forward. He plans to stroked the LS1 and go roll racing, just to see what it can do. Rob’s 1968 Chevrolet Chevelle SS This tough classic muscle car has a history like you wouldn’t believe. With just 32,000 miles on the odometer, it is as mint as it comes. Rob bought it from a deceased estate in Baltimore, USA, where it has been off the road for over 46 years. Originally gold with a black roof, the car was brought back and stripped for a proper restoration and modification for more power. Rob says it’s mint as you would expect for a car that had only seen 2 years of driving. All the chrome bits save for the mirrors and front pillar windows are original. The seat trims, dash and roof lining looked like it just came off the showroom floor. The original engine has been replaced with a 454 Chevy small block, stroked to 502 cubic inches and makes about 600hp. To handle all that power, a manualized Turbo 400 with a 4000RPM chucks the power through a 9in differential out the rear. Ransom’s Ford Falcon AU Ute First bought brand new in 1998, Ransom’s Ford Falcon ute was destined to be a promotional vehicle for his wife’s business. When asked if he was a Ford man all his life, Ransom replied “Nope, we just got tired of waiting an hour at the Holden dealership, and just walked across to Ford!” After nearly 20 years in hot pink and purple, Ransom decided it was time to turn it into a tough street car. Other than being meme’d to hell and back, the Falcon AU had a reputation for fast, effortless cruising. Ransom’s ute though, was built to be a road missile. The old engine made way for a Dart 302 V8 block, which was then stroked to 373cu. The Windsor based motor has also been given a shot of giggle gas to help lit the afterburners. Packing 600hp, the 175hp nitrous shot helped Ransom propel the ute into the 10s. He’s aiming to get it down even further with the new 300hp nitrous shot setup! Chuck’s 1970 Datsun Skyline Hakosuka C10 When it comes to desirable Japanese classics, the Hakosuka Skyline finds itself perched above all the rest. The good ol’ boxy Skyline saw the birth of the almighty GT-R and because of this, the Hakosuka is extremely sought after, even in non-GT-R form. Chuck’s 1970 Datsun Skyline C10 is especially rare as it’s a four-door example, which Nissan built less of than its coupe stablemate. Chuck owns one of three four-door Hakosuka Skylines that call Australia home. Now Chuck isn’t one to keep a classic completely original, rather opting to keep the Japanese icon tasteful with period-correct mods. Under the bonnet lives an L28 stroker fitted with 47mm OER carbs, singing to the tune of about 200kW, making it quite the formidable force given the Hakosuka’s lightweight body. All of that power is put to the ground through a Nissan Z five-speed and a Nismo 1.5 way R180 diff, making the Skyline quite a lively thing to chuck about. Inside the cabin, Chuck has treated himself to a pair of old-school Bride bucket seats that don’t look out of place within the near 50-year-old interior. Outside, the Skyline looks exactly how you’d imagine they hotted these things up over in the motherland back in the 70s. A set of Watanabe RS8 wheels, coupled with a healthy drop and a front lip and rear spoiler pulled of the GT-R keep this Hakosuka looking faithful to a time long passed. Paul’s 1989 BMW 318i The BMW E30 has exploded in popularity in the recent years, and have left Paul, owner of numerous E30s, scratching his head. Since he’s no stranger to the E30 chassis, he’s set out to build one just for his go-fast cravings. It started off with a parts car he purchased. It had a blown motor and was set to be cannibalized by Paul and his son for bits when he noticed the body was true, and had a rather mint chassis. He set it aside, then when he got hold of a S54 inline six from the BMW M3 E46, he didn’t hold back. The massive six went into the bay, complete with its original gearbox. Having only 56,000kms on it, the legendary engine runs as tight as a drum; needed as Paul tracks his E30 regularly! With massive Brembo brakes, he had to get custom 17in Simmons wheels to suit. Nitto NT01s are his choice of track rubber. Combined with just 990kg and firepower under the bonnet, Paul circulates Wakefield Park at 1:09:9. Just to make sure people see him coming up from behind, the E30 features a custom two-tone paint job. John’s Toyota Supra MK4 You’d never really see a car done like this at street meets, simply because it’s not a street car. Turning up on the back of a trailer to support his mate’s trade stall, John told us it was originally a NA aero-top automatic Supra, and he has left no stone unturned to turn it into a fire breathing time-attack weapon. The entire car was stripped and the chassis stitch-welded for extra stiffness. The legendary 2JZ-GTE engine was fettled with a 3.2L stroker kit, forged CP pistons, Kelford camshafts, springs and retainers, before being placed into the body. From there it sucked air in via a massive Precision 6466 turbocharger and dispels it via a 6-Boost manifold. Thanks to a combination of E85, Haltech ECUs and John’s shop J&J Motorsports expertise, the Supra now churns 650hp on 19PSI, 870hp on 32PSI. All four corners are shod with Volk Racing CE28s, measuring 18x10.5 wide. The body has been extended via a Ridox kit. Weight has been stripped out leaving only the bare essentials for racing, and even the doors and hatch has been replaced with lightweight carbon fibre items. John has taken it to World Time Attack Challenge 2017, but the car will be undergoing more development before it enters the next one. Ash’s Ford Escort Mk.1 When you know you have something special, you hang on to it for dear life. It’s exactly what Ash did. This Ford Escort Mk.1 has been with him through thick and thin, since he was 14. It’s almost 20 years now and the love is still going strong. “It’s been through quite a few changes, most notably about three engines!” he says. A worked 2L Pinto now sits up front. It gulps fuel and air through twin Webers, then converts the mixture into 160hp, sent to the rear wheels. Plenty for the lightweight Escort. It’s bright orange; a 16 year old paint job that was done in the shed. In fact, Ash and his late dad worked on the car themselves. It was built, painted, assembled and fixed in the driveway or shed, never seeing the inside of a workshop unless it’s absolutely needed. Ryan’s 2008 Subaru WRX STi Sitting low and fat in the middle of the meet was Ryan’s 2008 Impreza WRX STi. The already beefed up hatchback gets more girth thanks to a set of bolt on flares; required to cover the 10.5in wide Enkei RS05RRs. The width is accentuated by Ryan’s choice of aero enhancements. Upfront is an Ewing splitter with a pair of AutoElements canards. It’s not for show either; under the scooped bonnet lies a forged boxer motor, spinning a reliable 250kW to all four wheels, thanks a Blouch 2.5 turbo and a tank of E85. That infamous boxer beat shouts from an Ark Performance exhaust, apparently 1 of 1 in Australia. For more information about Meet & Eat and how to attend visit the Facebook page To learn more about the Bendix Brakes range of products visit:
  7. Getting 4WD Tyre Pressure Right

    I’ve long said that the single best value for money modification you can make to your 4WD that will get you further off-road than anything else, hands down, is tyre pressures. Adjusting air pressure in your tyres can cost you nothing, yet it is the single best thing you can do to your rig across the board to increase performance. Adjusting your tyre pressures increases or decreases your tyres footprint or surface area in contact with the ground. This offers lesser or greater resistance (grip) and alters your tyres reaction to the terrain over which you’re travelling. Starting with the blacktop, I would hazard a guess that I keep an eye on my road pressures at the very least once a month but probably more frequently. A few years back I found on my GU that by increasing my road pressures well above what I had been running them at, I was able to save a litre of diesel per 100kms travelled. Just by getting my on-road pressures correct. It’s like I’m making money now as a result! As soon as I leave the black top and venture on to any other style of terrain for a prolonged distance, I’m instantly thinking pressures. From black top it’s very common to hit high speed gravel (my second favourite terrain to beach driving by the way) and to rack up some big distances on said terrain. Road pressures suck on gravel; it’s uncomfortable for you and your passengers and contributes towards the creation of corrugations. Dropping your pressures, as well as your speed, smooths out the ride, makes it safer. High pressures and gravel combined with speed equals a lack of grip…. hold on! As a very general rule of thumb, for high speed gravel I’ll drop my tyres to around 28PSI. I mentioned corrugations and on some lengths of track they can be utterly diabolical. Head out towards Steep Point, the most westerly point on mainland Australia and you’ll see what I mean. These tracks still allow you to travel with speed but high pressures will just about rattle your rig to pieces. In these conditions Ill drop my pressures into the low 20 PSI range and then adjust my speed to find a comfortable maximum. Next up let’s think about low range conditions, steeps, rocks, ruts, mud and anything else that causes you to engage the stubby lever. It’s in these conditions that traction is key. Low pressures increase the ground surface area that your tyres are in contact with. More contact area, greater possible traction. Also, lower pressures enable your tyres to mould around obstacles, again improving contact, reducing the risk of tyre damage and increasing traction. My go-to starting point for anything low range is 18 PSI. Then we have sand; perhaps the most critical location for correct tyre pressures. As a rule of thumb, as soon as I hit a beach, I drop my tyres to 15 PSI. I then perform a very quick test to see if I’m in the ball park; simply build speed then disengage your gears, stop accelerating and let your 4WD coast to a stop. If your pressure is correct your vehicle will come to a slow and gradual stop. If your pressures are too high, you will stop suddenly as the tyres dig in. This is a fantastic rule to work by and I urge you to give it a crack. Remember the lower your pressures, the slower you must drive and avoid sharp turns as you run the risk of busting a tyre bead, which is a real pain in the backside. Learn to master this art and I assure you, any terrain will be looked upon differently; you’ll drive more efficiently, in more comfort, with greater traction and further, simply thanks to the best value modification you can make, tyre pressures. By Graham Cahill LINKS: Bridgestone Australia - Bridgestone Australia Facebook -
  8. Check out the video above to see how the BMW 635i fared at Sydney Motorsport Park, with the new RE-71Rs. For more information on the Potenza RE-71R, click HERE. Follow us on social media: Bridgestone Australia Facebook Bridgestone Australia Website Bridgestone Australia YouTube
  9. Buy 3 and get the 4th tyre FREE*. Available on Bridgestone Ecopia, Turanza Serenity Plus or Potenza tyres. A fuel saving tyre solution Engineered for Performance Superior safety and comfort. Promotion is valid from 01/04/2018 to 30/04/2018. Click here for more information about Bridgestone’s current offers. Get the full terms and conditions here LINKS: Bridgestone Australia - Bridgestone Australia Facebook -
  10. 5 Game-Changing Vehicle Technologies

    That's a great point! We think another necessity these days are cupholders. Very underrated invention!
  11. The Golden Era of Turbocharging

    Turbo life. Turbo all the way. Way more exciting
  12. Click the image above to open the podcast! Bendix’s Product Engineering Manager, Andrew French, recently appeared on’s podcast to talk brakes. Some very useful information for mechanics and DIYers alike with info on choosing the right brake pads, friction types, troubleshooting brakes and more! For updates and news visit our Facebook page To learn more about the Bendix Brakes range of products visit:
  13. The Golden Era of Turbocharging

    The turbocharger was once a little-known technology reserved for performance cars and high-end stuff, but now it’s mainstream and is expected on most new cars. The push for turbocharged engines is simply a result of tightening emissions targets that can’t be achieved with fuel-hungry, normally aspirated engines. In a nutshell, a turbocharger is a turbine that spins when exhaust gases pass it, causing its other side to spin and compress incoming air. The compressed air contains more oxygen thus detonating better in the engine, providing more power. Once the compressed air enters the engine, the computer sends more fuel than normal to help it detonate, so more power is generated, but if the engine is not revving hard - or there’s not much throttle input - the engine only uses as much fuel as it would when normally aspirated. The result is as much power as a bigger engine when you want it, but with the efficiency of a smaller engine when you don’t. Traditionally, the secret to gaining more power was to have a bigger engine. And it’s true, to an extent. But the efficiency of modern turbochargers, combined with direct fuel injection, means that small engines can now punch above their weight when it comes to power. And even better, it’s able to maintain the fuel economy expected of the smaller engine size. More manufacturers are now adding turbocharged engines to their line-ups – even larger vehicles such as SUVs – which are increasingly featuring small, four-cylinder turbocharged engines as the main power plant. The introduction of powerful, reliable turbocharged engines that are smaller in size are having such an impact that traditional naming convention is going out the window. BMW’s 330i, which was once a 3-series with a 3.0-litre six-cylinder engine, is now a 3-series with a 2.0-litre turbocharged four-cylinder, for example. Up the pointy end of the spectrum, we’re also seeing a departure of normal aspirated engines from supercars, replaced with smaller, lighter and more powerful turbocharged variants. Eventually, as emissions targets tighten even more, we’ll see manufacturers combining smaller turbocharged engines with electric hybrid technology, all in a bid to lower pollution but provide similar levels of power provided by the traditional internal combustion engine Are you team turbo, or do you only have time for big, grunty engines? Post a comment below or over on Bridgestone Australia’s Facebook. LINKS: Bridgestone Australia - Bridgestone Australia Facebook -
  14. 5 Game-Changing Vehicle Technologies

    Although not developed solely for cars I have two pieces of automotive "tech" that I like and I think popular consensus would say the same. 1. Remote Central Locking 2. Air Conditioning Once considered "Optional Extras" I don't know of many cars these days that don't come with both as standard and honestly, would you buy a car that didn't have at least one of these?
  15. 5 Game-Changing Vehicle Technologies

    It’s easy to forget just how much the car you drive has changed over time. While most of your car’s technology has been widely introduced with safety in mind, much of the tech also has its origins on the race track. Here are 5 of the most game-changing technologies to ever be introduced to your car. 1. Forced Induction Forced induction is the compression of intake air resulting in more oxygen entering each cylinder, generating more power. Both turbochargers and superchargers can do this, but a turbocharger is the common choice today. Early examples of turbocharged engines didn’t produce much boost pressure when in the low rev range and suffered from ‘turbo lag’, however, modern twin scroll turbine design and technology has allowed for boost to be reached much earlier. But in an effort to lower vehicle emissions the addition of turbos to smaller engines is seeing the demise of bigger, naturally-aspirated units. 2. Electronic Stability Control (ESC) and Traction Control (TC) Early traction control systems were a safety mechanism introduced to reduce wheel spin and the loss of control in slippery conditions. But for careless drivers it also meant they needn't worry about erroneous throttle input. Modern ESC and TC has now evolved to the point that it can allow a vehicle to drive on its absolute limit without fear of losing it. The latest Ford Focus RS is one example where power is modulated at each wheel and perfectly calculated according to the amount of steering and throttle input. 3. Dual Clutch Transmission (DCT) A technology originally developed for racing, DCT gearboxes allow rapid gear changes and other tricks such as launch control. Inside a DCT are two clutches – one for even gears and one for odd gears. This means when driving in either an even or odd gear the other clutch is able to engage the next cog. The result is rapid gear changes without losing acceleration. It has also led to features such as launch control, which helps shoot the Nissan GT-R Nismo from 0-100km/h in just 2.7sec. 4. Electric Motors Full electric and hybrid cars were once something reserved for eco-warriors, but the technology is now used in many new supercars that can accelerate as fast as some of the quickest petrol-powered rivals. The advantage of an electric motor over an internal combustion engine is that it provides full torque from 0rpm. Of course, it would be impossible to provide 800Nm from 0rpm because of traction and that thing called physics, so, electric cars usually have all-wheel drive and rely on sophisticated traction control algorithms. The Tesla Model S P100D uses a full electric powertrain to accelerate 0-100km/h in just 2.7sec... But there’s the even faster Ferrari LaFerrari that produces 708kw and 900Nm of power from its hybrid electric 6.3-litre V12 driveline and rockets 0-300km/h in under 15.0sec. 5. Fuel Injection Perhaps the days of fuel injection are numbered as more electric cars enter the market, but in the 1980s it replaced the long-trusted carburettor when emissions testing required a more efficient fuel delivery. Early systems weren’t great but fuel injection was rapidly revolutionised and helped lead the way to increasing turbocharger boost pressure, shutting down cylinders when cruising for economy and lowering emissions. What has been your favourite development in the world of car tech? What are you excited about in the future? Share your thoughts below or join the conversation on Facebook. LINKS: Bridgestone Australia - Bridgestone Australia Facebook -
  16. Buy 3 and get the 4th tyre FREE*. Available on Bridgestone Ecopia, Potenza, Turanza Serenity Plus or Supercat tyres. A fuel saving tyre solution Engineered for Performance Superior safety and comfort. Excellent value performer. Promotion is valid from 25/02/2018 to 31/03/2018. Click here for more information about Bridgestone’s current offers. Get the full terms and conditions here LINKS: Bridgestone Australia - Bridgestone Australia Facebook -
  17. Recently, the guys at Downshift were given the chance to review the Bridestone Potenza RE-71R tyre. Here’s what they had to say! Recently we were given the opportunity to test out Bridgestone’s newest semi-slick, the Potenza RE-71R, which boasts superior performance on the street as well as on track due to it’s UltimateEYE technology. So we set out to test just that. The first guinea pig was to be my own John Player Special E30 BMW 323i. We opted for the largest size that would fit in my guards without scraping, and went with a 215/45/16. I’m (cursed) lucky enough to live in Canberra, which means more than enough roundabouts as well as the usual city streets and parkways to put the tyres through their paces! I was fortunate enough that we also had a few days of rain while I had the tyres fitted, which meant I was able to try them out in the wet. I found myself gaining more and more confidence entering corners and roundabouts without breaking traction (which shouldn’t be too hard with an LSD and a short wheelbase) Due to their unique angled lateral groove design, they expel large amounts of water to keep the responsiveness in the wet as close as possible to dry. At one point on my travels, I was also sharply reminded that I had the RE-71Rs on when I encountered roadkill, and had to manoeuvre sharply to avoid it. The response was such that it almost felt like the car could have performed a 90-degree turn. Normally this should have scared a person, but that was when I had my “wow” moment of realisation of just how hard the tyres grab the road. We even kept them on for an interstate trip from Canberra to Melbourne & back for one of our Melbourne Downshift meets. While they did sit nicely on the highway, the one downside is that I found they were on the noisy side for such a long trip. Obviously not an issue for most people who will be opting for semis. The next challenge was to try them out on the track, however due to my BMW not being up to the task when the time came, we put the word out for somebody that also had an oddly sized 16″ rim to test them. That’s when I was contacted by Andrew Grosse, who owns a gorgeous shark nose BMW 635CSi 24hr Group A Spa replica, running an M30B35 with a M30B34 bottom end (a 3.4L slant-6 for those not familiar with BMW engines). A few chats back and forth and Andrew had a track day booked at Sydney Motorsport Park and we had the tyres sent up to him. Fast forward a few weeks, and we were finally going to get to push the Potenza RE-71Rs to their limits, while Andrew got to play racecar in his gorgeous machine. After a few warm up laps and battling the usual track day demons, a control time on a different set of tyres was recorded of a 1.59.163 on the Gardner GP circuit. Then, it was time to fit the Bridgestone Potenza RE-71Rs. Andrew found himself becoming more and more confident coming into corners, even holding higher gears in corners 4 through to 6. The proof would be in the laptimes though, and he finished the day with a PB of 1.55.847 recorded! After a debrief on the day I could tell Andrew was quite happy with the track performance of the tyres, especially given that these tyres had a smaller rolling diameter than his usual 245/50/16. He strongly believed that on a set of RE-71Rs in his usual size would allow even more time to be shaved off his PB again. By Adam Vhalos For more information on the Potenza RE-71R, click HERE. LINKS: Bridgestone Australia - Bridgestone Australia Facebook -
  18. Bridgestone RE-71R Review

    Nice! Good to see my old car still getting around and being looked after by an enthusiast
  19. Bridgestone RE-71R Review

    Fullboost recently gave their Project GSR Lancer a shakedown at Sandown Raceway wearing a fresh set of Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R rubber. Check out their Bridgestone RE-71R review in the video above. For more information on the Potenza RE-71R, click HERE. LINKS: Bridgestone Australia - Bridgestone Australia Facebook -
  20. Forsale - 2001 Eisen Grey Evolution 7 - 117,xxx klms $19,990 

    please see 



  21. When it’s time to service the brakes and a change of brake pads are required, you might be told that the front brake pads are done, but the rears will be fine. It’s a rule of thumb that since the rear brakes do less work than the front, the pads will last twice as long. In modern cars and vehicles, this is no longer the case. with the advent of traction control, stability programs and electronic brake force distribution systems found in today’s new cars, the rear brakes are given a work out just as much as the fronts, often without us realizing it. Electronic brake force distribution (EBD) is a system that is now found on most modern cars with high safety ratings. EBD works by varying brake pressure between front and rear wheels, depending on speed, road conditions and how hard the driver is braking. It works alongside standard anti-lock braking systems for peace of mind. Often, EBD uses the rear brakes to stop the car from diving under initial brake application. This prevents excessive weight transfer to the front, allowing for more stable handling, and a better ride for the car’s occupants. In rear wheel drive cars, clever traction and stability programs are used in place of a limited slip differential, by braking the inside or outside rear wheels to improve handling and traction. Stability control programs also brake the inside rear wheels to prevent understeer in emergency situations. Automatic hill descent features are now mostly standard in modern 4x4 vehicles or SUVs. The hill descent program individually brakes each wheel while the vehicle goes down a steep slope, without input from the driver. Front and rear brakes are independently used to maintain a specified speed going downhill in slippery off road conditions. This also results in rear brake pads to wear out sooner than expected. Bendix brakes are suited to modern car technology that continuously improves to meet ever stricter safety regulations. Combined they offer exceptional on-road safety. Make sure to check your rear brake pads, calipers and rotors as well at your next service, and ask your mechanic for Bendix brakes. For more information on Bendix brake pads, click HERE. To find your nearest Bendix stockist, click HERE. To follow us on Facebook for the latest updates and news, click HERE.
  22. Not a bad result for my first Targa. 14th outright and 4th in class. Lots of top 10 times, but my best was 5th outright on the 40km Eildon stage.

    Thanks to Angryman Photography for the nice pic below.

    810 - TS04-Violet Town-SS.jpg

  23. + A few sets of gloves doesn’t go astray also, some rubberised ones, some nitro style grease resistant and fuel resistant ones help if you have to get things grimy like messing with wheels or lies and good if there is an accident etc, I have them in the diesel Audi as the pump handles are covered in diesel and you don’t want to then put that on the steering wheel... if I fill Jerry cans the gloves help to keep the petrol off the hands.. safety vest too, afew old towels and garbags help too...
  24. How about a first aid kit. Even if you do not know how to use it a bystander might. And it might be you they need to use it on.
  25. As essential as fuel in the tank and air in the tyres is a good tool kit in the boot. It won’t take up much room and it will keep you from waiting for (potentially expensive) help to arrive. Most of the 12 items in this list will fit into a small tool or tackle box, and will cost about as much as a call-out fee from a mechanic. 1. Cable ties Cable (or ‘zip ties’) are always handy to have around. From holding a pranged bumper together to keeping a hose connected, cable ties have saved the day on many occasions. 2. Jumper cables Many people have been asked for a set of jumper cables, and many don’t keep a pair in the boot...don’t get caught out. Just remember the order - connect dead battery positive terminal to good battery positive terminal, then connect good battery negative to bad battery negative or the manufacturer’s jumper point (on newer cars, read the manual). 3. Jack and tyre iron Most cars should have these, but if you don’t, you could find yourself in a bad spot! The process of jacking a car to change a tyre is extremely straight forward but there are some basic safety protocols to observe – familiarise yourself with the process so that you can perform it flawlessly when the time comes. 4. Socket and spanner set Size 10mm-22mm should take care of most bolts – for newer cars you’ll be looking for a quality ‘metric’ set (measured in ‘mm’), and for older cars an ‘imperial’ set (measured in fractions of an inch). 5. Screwdriver (Flat and Philips head) A big one and a small one should take care of most situations. 6. Fuses Newer cars may take both the big and the mini type, so make sure you have enough handy. Some cars also come loaded with a few spares in the factory fuse box – just be sure to restock any that you use so you’re never caught out again! 7. Fire extinguisher In-car fires are a real thing and can be caused by any number of vehicle malfunctions, from leaking oil to electrical fires. A small powder type extinguisher will take care of most types of expected fires. 8. Torch Unfortunately, you can’t pick the time of day something goes wrong. 9. Pliers Good for pulling fuses or cutting wire; a Leatherman-style multi-tool is even better. 10. Tape Stronger gaffer tape can solve most problems, including noisy backseat occupants. 11. Stanley knife and/or scissors For cutting things, of course! 12. Workshop manual If you’re doing some remote driving or like to get your hands dirty, a model-specific workshop manual will show you how to remove every single bolt in the car and put it back together again. Are there any vehicle must-haves that we’ve missed? Reply to this post below, or let us know in the comments on Facebook. LINKS: Bridgestone Australia - Bridgestone Australia Facebook -
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